This was a pretty easy process, everything lined up as expected. The only issue was that my sons wait is bigger than 'expected', so I ended up removing the shaping at the side seams and reducing the shaping at the back.
Of course, anytime you draft a pattern you're going to want to do a mock up before cutting in your final fabric. The pattern indicated that seam allowance was included in the draft, so I sewed it up with a 1/2" seam allowance for a quick fitting. I left out the front dart as my sons waist is the same measurement as his chest so he doesn't really need one here.
I made the following changes based on the mockup:
- Add 1/2" to lower side front to keep the side seams vertical
- Add 1/2" to the centre front where it buttons only
- Increase the scoop on the collar to show more shirt front (I just like this better)
- Remove the shaping at center beck and cut on the fold, adding a waist adjuster. This wasn't a neccessary adjustment based on the current fit, but I'm sewiong for a growing boy and hope this willl fit for a while.
And it all looks like this:
- Cut seam allowance from outer edge of canvas interlining
- Tack the main fabric onto the canvas interlining
- Fold the outer edge of the main fabric over the canvas and handstitch to the canvas layer only
- Pin on the lining and fold under the outer edge, leaving around 3mm (1/8") gap around the edge
- Hand stitch the lining to the main fabric only at the outer edge.
The once I've always used before end up with a welt that lines up perfectly with the opening for the pocket, which then always seems to gape open when worn, particularly after been washed. This time the welt comes up well above the slit for pocket access so I'm very hopeful that it will stay looking nice - and it was easier to do too!
And it's done! (Apart from the eyelets on the jiggers, which I'll do once I've got the tape for the back lacing)
The main fabric is a traditional cotton pique and the lining is a cotton shirting (for coolness). Both are factory ofcuts which came to my stash via the play and recycling centre in Derby. The fronts are interfaced witha medium weight iron on interfacingm and the collars are interfaced with collar canvas. The buttons are self covered. Everything came from my stash so that's a big win!
Really happy with the result, but it took ages and I need to speed up!