And on to the real fabric! Because I need to match the patterns across seam lines I've cut my muslin apart right along the stitching lines. First I lay everything out and figure out the best placement of the checks to get things as lined up as possible - when a curved edge is meeting a straight edge it's not going to be possible to match things perfectly but it's still gotta look good!
Lining partly assembled - I'm liking the shape that the quilted satin gives! And on to the real fabric! Because I need to match the patterns across seam lines I've cut my muslin apart right along the stitching lines. First I lay everything out and figure out the best placement of the checks to get things as lined up as possible - when a curved edge is meeting a straight edge it's not going to be possible to match things perfectly but it's still gotta look good! I drew around the pattern with chalk, then flipped it over and drew the other side. Then because I'd cut all the seam allowances off I had to draw them back on again before cutting out. Because this layer is going over a padded lining I cut a larger than usual allowance so I can adjust if required. And then I thread traced the chalk outline with basting thread - this is an important step because the chalk will rub off with handling, and it also allows us to see the stitching lines from both sides. And I tacked the back seam - it looks yummy!
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I'm really pleased with how this pattern turned out - everything fit together first time and the sizing is spot on - in fact, I added extra seam allowance when I cut it out and made it up a little larger than drafted so I'd have room to take it in, and I think I should have gone with making it up exactly as drafted. Never mind, I can readjust :)
The bad news is that when I tried to put it on my adjustable dressform her bottom fell off! So here it is on a slightly too big non-adjustable dressform. Next step: drafting the collar and a second draft of the hood. I got my first custom order on etsy, and it's an exciting one! A grey with yellow check wool full length coat, custom drafted from a pattern in Frances Grimbles Bustle fashions 1885-1887. The lining will be black quilted satin, and there will be 35 buttons down the front. The hood is removable and lined in grey satin. PS. my toddler has removed several keys from my laptop so please excuse any missing letters - I can spell, honest! And because my sewing goal is to do things more like the Victorians, and to do that I need to see how they did it, I p[aid a visit to extantgowns.com. This is a fantastic site which gathers pictures of original garments from auction sites and private collections, and quite a few of them have internal shots as well. Everything is very neat and - well, modern looking on the insides, very different to the insides of bodices I've seen from the same period. There's even a coat with a quilted satin lining, just like the one I'll be making.
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AuthorMy crazy costuming, sewing and maybe other stuff too blog! Hopefully others can learn from my mistakes and I can learn from your comments :) Hey you! ;)According to the stats people are actually visiting this site - I'd love to know who you are so please leave comments!
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