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1830s Ballgown

11/16/2010

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Having got as far as I can with Johns coat, I've decided to go back to start work on this dress.
The fabrics I picked up a while ago - I decided to go for a dark pink rather than the peach of the original, mainly because I liked the sheer fabric - it has a little shine but not too much. I chose cream lace to go with it - the lace has to be strategically cut to allow it to drape into those scallop shapes, and I plan to do some sort of reconstruction to create long dangly bits similar to the original. But it was affordable which is the main thing! I also have a plain habatae silk fabric to make bias binding for the sleeves, the belt and any other bits that need to be solid rather than transparent. The lining fabric is a curtain fabric which has a slight slub effect reminiscent of dupion, but again was a budget option.

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Actual sewing progress so far: I have cut out and flat lined the underbodice, sewn it together and adjusted it to fit - which involved taking about 2 inches off at the center front and 2 inches off the top of the shoulder. I have a feeling this may bring the neckline up higher than is intended, but the bust darts seemed to be better place with the whole thing pulled up higher, and it makes it easier to adapt to be modest which is always good! I think part of the reason for the adjustments may be that I've lost a little weight since I measure, the proportions seemed good just overall too large.
I realised when I tried it on that I cut out the pointed front version rather than the straight front - I must really have cold brain to have not realised that while I was sewing it up! The solution for now is a pencil line drawn on the fabric to mark where the waist will be. Looking at the pictures again I noticed that the original dress doesn't have a lining - I was planning to make the overlay and underlay as one for skirt and sleeves, and will probably anchor my bodice overlay to the underbodice as well. I assume that the reason they were originally separate was for ease of cleaning, and at the moment can't think of a good reason to not put them together.

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