I was lucky enough to find a local sewing group, the thames valley offcuts, which meant I could go along to one of their meetings and finally have room to stand back and take a look at what I'm creating! My aim for the afternoon was to get everything pinned in place, which I managed (although a few of them have fallen off again since - stupid pins!)
From now on, I have loads and loads of hand sewing to do. I had planned to stop updating here but I've realised that I need the motivation! So far, I've stitched on the trim around the bottom, down one side of the back opening and a few of the motifs on the skirt. The plan is to do a little each day so I don't end up with a sore back.

I wanted to post pictures of the lace border where I pieced it at the front. I did this so that I could have the points falling on the seam lines - the other pattern pieces I resized before making up to match the distances, but that didn't seem like an appropriate approach for the center front.
To piece lace, first overlap the two pieces and decide where you want to keep the top layer and where you want to keep the bottom layer. Trim carefully, then top stitch in matching thread .
I'm really pleased with the result, especially as I didn't notice it myself when I got it out to work on another area.

On tuesday I hemmed the silk underdress. To do this, cut a 10 cm bias strip long enough to go round the hem of your dress. Press under 1.5com along one edges, and stitch the other edge to the hem of the dress, right sides together.
Next, stitch horsehair braid to the seam allowance just created.  The braid will help the skirt to keep its shape and drape nicely. (Horsehair braid isn't real horsehair, its a springy strip of woven plastic) 
Finally, turn the bias strip under and, taking care not to catch the silk, tack the folded edge to the interlining. This is one of the big reasons that you still need to use interlining even if your fabric is stiff enough without it. Note that you allow the bottom edge to be a gentle curve, don't try to crease it on the stitching line. Apparently this is the couture way to do it, possibly this is another way of helping the skirt keep its shape at the hemline?
Finnaly, I tried bustling the skirt and put pins at the bustle points for reference when placing the lace.

And the sleeves are ready to be attached! I attached the lining to the sleeve at the bottom edge, pressed and understiched it as usual. I then hand sewed the lace on, removed beading from the seam allowances and sewed into a tube, then turned the lining through.

Inner structure
Assemble Mostly done - bottom edge left unfinished in case adjustments are required.
Finish edges of boning

Petticoat
Cot out and assemble DONE
Add net DONE
Add detachable train support

Lining
Assemble lining
Attach Lining
Attach zip
Attach inner structure to lining at side seams

Dress
Hand tack interlining to fabric DONE
Hand tack tulle to fabric to Godet level, front and back seams DONE
Stitch seams to Godet level, front and back seams DONE
Apply Godet to net DONE
Apply godet to fabric DONE
Stitch and Trim side seams in net Started
Stitch side seams in fabric DONE
Make and apply rolleaux button loops DONE
Stitch on buttons
Make sleeves DONE
Attach sleeves
Cut skirt facing strips DONE
Apply facing and horsehair to hem of skirt DONE

Trimming
Cut out lace DONE
Pin on lace
Allow to stretch and reposition
Attach lace

More progress! The tulle layer is now complete, the underskirt is 90% right (the train supporting section needs sorting out) and the bodice fits much better now.
The next step is to hem the silk skirt, which I probably should have done today... but instead I but out the lace and pinned it on to see what the finished product will look like :D
Glad I did, cos I love it! I was doubting myself a bit before, but I'm excited again now. Pushing on in the evenings this week, then friday is another big sewing day - yay for the royal wedding giving me an extra bank holiday!
Oh, and the second picture is my industrial injury ;) Somehow, I caught my hand on a pin, then did it again about 5 minutes later. Luckily no blood on the dress :)

I'm pretty pleased with the progress I made today - I finished interlining everything and did a lot of the assembly of the dress. The silk is all sewn together and only the godets are missing from the tulle layer. Of course, it doesn't fit wuite right - why is it every time I get a muslin right, the actula item doesn't look the same? Actually, don't answer that, I know its because I'm not exact enough with my seam allowances when cutting and sewing.
I love the way the interlined silk hangs, its exactly what I'm hoping for. I got a little nervous about how the net looks over the silk - the original dress had a layer of striped tulle under the net, which gave it a more textured look. However I'm not going to worry about it now, I'll wait till I've got the appliques on because I can always add more detail if I need to.
The back fastening is the part which required the most thought - its consists of a hidden zip (as in hidden by a placket, not an invisible zip which wouldn't be strong enough) and then rolleaux loops and buttons (which aren't sewn on yet). I haven't decided what to do about loops for the top lace section, but at the moment I;m thinking either thread loops or possibly elastic. They won't really be rquired to take any strain, so I have a few options.
Jobs for next time:
Fix the underskirt (thanks mum for unpicking it)
Add removable train support
Sew in the tulle godets
Take in the bodice as required
Hem the silk skirt
Set bustleing points (so I can make sure the stitches joining the tulle to the silk at these point are covered by motifs.

Well, I've been working all weekend but have nothing exciting to show you! I have: ironed 9m of silk, finished the mockup, made a rough version of the petticoat, cut out the pieces (lining, interlining, fabric, tulle *2) and got about half way through tacking the interlining to the fabric.
I have watched: 3 episodes of north and south, 2 episodes of Dr Who, 1 episode of Glee and 9 episodes of lark rise to candleford!
Sanity just about intact, I'm pretty pleased with what I've achieved even though there's nothing obvious to show for it. Fingers crossed next weekend I'll get to start putting the dress together.

Phew! That was a long day of sewing! But for once I achieved what I hoped to achieve :)

I worked some more on the petticoat - I'm now happy with the volume at the bottom, but made a silly miscalculation with the net which means its not wide enough 1/3 of the way down, so that need to be unpicked. I also need to replace the curtain lining with white lining fabric, but the top half is the final product.

I finished the mockup, including marking necklines and adding sleeves. I foolishly didn't take pictures before I cut it apart to use as a pattern. Oh well! I then adjusted a couple of pieces to line up with the scalloped edges properly - I need the points to fall on seam lines to meet up with the lace which will cover the seamlines.

Last but by no means least, I cut out: 2 layers of tulle, a layer of silk, a layer of lining fabric and interlining - dress net for below the waist and cotton lawn for above the waist. My back is gonna ache tomorrow!

Progress check:
Mockups
Before anything else, complete as many mock-ups as necessary to make sure the pattern design and fit is perfect.  DONE
Calculate yardages required using perfected mockup DONE (ok, mockups not finished but its close enough)
After purchasing lace, adjust pattern if necessary to place points of scallops over seams. DONE

Shopping
Foundation materials
-White Coutil (Purchased, www.fabricland.co.uk)
-Wide Plastic Boning (Purchased, fabricland)
-Narrow Plastic Boning (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Power Net (Purchased, fabricland)
-Hook and Eye tape (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Silk Dupion for lining (Purchased, Silk Baron)

Interior Fabrics
-Polyester lining (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Dress net to interline Skirt (Purchased, fabricland)
-Cotton Lawn to interline bodice (Purchased, fabricland)
-Horsehair Braid for hem (Purchased, fabricland)

Outer Fabrics
-Power woven White silk Dupion or Duchesse Satin (Purchased, Silk Baron)
-Tulle (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Lace (Purchased, Carrington Bridal)
  – must have a Scalloped edge, between 6” and 10” deep, the deeper the better
  - Must have (or be pieced to) long strips, 2-3" wide, which can be used for        covering seams.
  - Must have motifs which can be used to decorate skirt panels - about 7" long, more than one design would be great
   - Must be able to peice together to completely cover bodice and sleeves
Narrow Piping cord for Roleux loop (Purchased, Fabricland)
Cover buttons (Purchased, Fabricland)
Zip (Purchased, Fabricland)

Inner structure
Cut out coutil DONE
Cut out Power Net DONE
Cut out lining DONE
Assemble Mostly done - bottom edge left unfinished in case adjustments are required.
Add Boning DONE
Add Hooks and Eyes DONE

Petticoat
Draft Pattern DONE
Cot out and assemble
Add net
Add detachable train support

Lining
Cut out lining DONE
Assemble lining
Attach Lining
Attach zip
Attach inner structure to lining at side seams

Dress
Cut out Fabric DONE
Cut out interlining DONE
Cut out Net DONE
Hand tack interlining to fabric
Hand tack lace to fabric to Godet level, front and back seams
Stitch seams to Godet level, front and back seams
Apply Godet to net
Apply godet to fabric
Stitch and Trim side seams in net
Stitch side seams in fabric
Make and apply rolleaux button loops
Cover Buttons DONE
Stitch on buttons
Make sleeves
Attach sleeves
Cut skirt facing strips
Apply facing and horsehair to hem of skirt

Trimming
Cut out lace
Pin on lace
Allow to stretch and reposition
Attach lace