On tuesday I hemmed the silk underdress. To do this, cut a 10 cm bias strip long enough to go round the hem of your dress. Press under 1.5com along one edges, and stitch the other edge to the hem of the dress, right sides together.
Next, stitch horsehair braid to the seam allowance just created. The braid will help the skirt to keep its shape and drape nicely. (Horsehair braid isn't real horsehair, its a springy strip of woven plastic)
Finally, turn the bias strip under and, taking care not to catch the silk, tack the folded edge to the interlining. This is one of the big reasons that you still need to use interlining even if your fabric is stiff enough without it. Note that you allow the bottom edge to be a gentle curve, don't try to crease it on the stitching line. Apparently this is the couture way to do it, possibly this is another way of helping the skirt keep its shape at the hemline?
Finnaly, I tried bustling the skirt and put pins at the bustle points for reference when placing the lace.
Next, stitch horsehair braid to the seam allowance just created. The braid will help the skirt to keep its shape and drape nicely. (Horsehair braid isn't real horsehair, its a springy strip of woven plastic)
Finally, turn the bias strip under and, taking care not to catch the silk, tack the folded edge to the interlining. This is one of the big reasons that you still need to use interlining even if your fabric is stiff enough without it. Note that you allow the bottom edge to be a gentle curve, don't try to crease it on the stitching line. Apparently this is the couture way to do it, possibly this is another way of helping the skirt keep its shape at the hemline?
Finnaly, I tried bustling the skirt and put pins at the bustle points for reference when placing the lace.
And the sleeves are ready to be attached! I attached the lining to the sleeve at the bottom edge, pressed and understiched it as usual. I then hand sewed the lace on, removed beading from the seam allowances and sewed into a tube, then turned the lining through.
Inner structure
Assemble Mostly done - bottom edge left unfinished in case adjustments are required.
Finish edges of boning
Petticoat
Cot out and assemble DONE
Add net DONE
Add detachable train support
Lining
Assemble lining
Attach Lining
Attach zip
Attach inner structure to lining at side seams
Dress
Hand tack interlining to fabric DONE
Hand tack tulle to fabric to Godet level, front and back seams DONE
Stitch seams to Godet level, front and back seams DONE
Apply Godet to net DONE
Apply godet to fabric DONE
Stitch and Trim side seams in net Started
Stitch side seams in fabric DONE
Make and apply rolleaux button loops DONE
Stitch on buttons
Make sleeves DONE
Attach sleeves
Cut skirt facing strips DONE
Apply facing and horsehair to hem of skirt DONE
Trimming
Cut out lace DONE
Pin on lace
Allow to stretch and reposition
Attach lace
Assemble Mostly done - bottom edge left unfinished in case adjustments are required.
Finish edges of boning
Petticoat
Cot out and assemble DONE
Add net DONE
Add detachable train support
Lining
Assemble lining
Attach Lining
Attach zip
Attach inner structure to lining at side seams
Dress
Hand tack interlining to fabric DONE
Hand tack tulle to fabric to Godet level, front and back seams DONE
Stitch seams to Godet level, front and back seams DONE
Apply Godet to net DONE
Apply godet to fabric DONE
Stitch and Trim side seams in net Started
Stitch side seams in fabric DONE
Make and apply rolleaux button loops DONE
Stitch on buttons
Make sleeves DONE
Attach sleeves
Cut skirt facing strips DONE
Apply facing and horsehair to hem of skirt DONE
Trimming
Cut out lace DONE
Pin on lace
Allow to stretch and reposition
Attach lace
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