Phew! That was a long day of sewing! But for once I achieved what I hoped to achieve :)
I worked some more on the petticoat - I'm now happy with the volume at the bottom, but made a silly miscalculation with the net which means its not wide enough 1/3 of the way down, so that need to be unpicked. I also need to replace the curtain lining with white lining fabric, but the top half is the final product.
I finished the mockup, including marking necklines and adding sleeves. I foolishly didn't take pictures before I cut it apart to use as a pattern. Oh well! I then adjusted a couple of pieces to line up with the scalloped edges properly - I need the points to fall on seam lines to meet up with the lace which will cover the seamlines.
Last but by no means least, I cut out: 2 layers of tulle, a layer of silk, a layer of lining fabric and interlining - dress net for below the waist and cotton lawn for above the waist. My back is gonna ache tomorrow!
Progress check:
Mockups
Before anything else, complete as many mock-ups as necessary to make sure the pattern design and fit is perfect. DONE
Calculate yardages required using perfected mockup DONE (ok, mockups not finished but its close enough)
After purchasing lace, adjust pattern if necessary to place points of scallops over seams. DONE
Shopping
Foundation materials
-White Coutil (Purchased, www.fabricland.co.uk)
-Wide Plastic Boning (Purchased, fabricland)
-Narrow Plastic Boning (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Power Net (Purchased, fabricland)
-Hook and Eye tape (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Silk Dupion for lining (Purchased, Silk Baron)
Interior Fabrics
-Polyester lining (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Dress net to interline Skirt (Purchased, fabricland)
-Cotton Lawn to interline bodice (Purchased, fabricland)
-Horsehair Braid for hem (Purchased, fabricland)
Outer Fabrics
-Power woven White silk Dupion or Duchesse Satin (Purchased, Silk Baron)
-Tulle (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Lace (Purchased, Carrington Bridal)
– must have a Scalloped edge, between 6” and 10” deep, the deeper the better
- Must have (or be pieced to) long strips, 2-3" wide, which can be used for covering seams.
- Must have motifs which can be used to decorate skirt panels - about 7" long, more than one design would be great
- Must be able to peice together to completely cover bodice and sleeves
Narrow Piping cord for Roleux loop (Purchased, Fabricland)
Cover buttons (Purchased, Fabricland)
Zip (Purchased, Fabricland)
Inner structure
Cut out coutil DONE
Cut out Power Net DONE
Cut out lining DONE
Assemble Mostly done - bottom edge left unfinished in case adjustments are required.
Add Boning DONE
Add Hooks and Eyes DONE
Petticoat
Draft Pattern DONE
Cot out and assemble
Add net
Add detachable train support
Lining
Cut out lining DONE
Assemble lining
Attach Lining
Attach zip
Attach inner structure to lining at side seams
Dress
Cut out Fabric DONE
Cut out interlining DONE
Cut out Net DONE
Hand tack interlining to fabric
Hand tack lace to fabric to Godet level, front and back seams
Stitch seams to Godet level, front and back seams
Apply Godet to net
Apply godet to fabric
Stitch and Trim side seams in net
Stitch side seams in fabric
Make and apply rolleaux button loops
Cover Buttons DONE
Stitch on buttons
Make sleeves
Attach sleeves
Cut skirt facing strips
Apply facing and horsehair to hem of skirt
Trimming
Cut out lace
Pin on lace
Allow to stretch and reposition
Attach lace
I worked some more on the petticoat - I'm now happy with the volume at the bottom, but made a silly miscalculation with the net which means its not wide enough 1/3 of the way down, so that need to be unpicked. I also need to replace the curtain lining with white lining fabric, but the top half is the final product.
I finished the mockup, including marking necklines and adding sleeves. I foolishly didn't take pictures before I cut it apart to use as a pattern. Oh well! I then adjusted a couple of pieces to line up with the scalloped edges properly - I need the points to fall on seam lines to meet up with the lace which will cover the seamlines.
Last but by no means least, I cut out: 2 layers of tulle, a layer of silk, a layer of lining fabric and interlining - dress net for below the waist and cotton lawn for above the waist. My back is gonna ache tomorrow!
Progress check:
Mockups
Before anything else, complete as many mock-ups as necessary to make sure the pattern design and fit is perfect. DONE
Calculate yardages required using perfected mockup DONE (ok, mockups not finished but its close enough)
After purchasing lace, adjust pattern if necessary to place points of scallops over seams. DONE
Shopping
Foundation materials
-White Coutil (Purchased, www.fabricland.co.uk)
-Wide Plastic Boning (Purchased, fabricland)
-Narrow Plastic Boning (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Power Net (Purchased, fabricland)
-Hook and Eye tape (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Silk Dupion for lining (Purchased, Silk Baron)
Interior Fabrics
-Polyester lining (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Dress net to interline Skirt (Purchased, fabricland)
-Cotton Lawn to interline bodice (Purchased, fabricland)
-Horsehair Braid for hem (Purchased, fabricland)
Outer Fabrics
-Power woven White silk Dupion or Duchesse Satin (Purchased, Silk Baron)
-Tulle (Purchased, Fabricland)
-Lace (Purchased, Carrington Bridal)
– must have a Scalloped edge, between 6” and 10” deep, the deeper the better
- Must have (or be pieced to) long strips, 2-3" wide, which can be used for covering seams.
- Must have motifs which can be used to decorate skirt panels - about 7" long, more than one design would be great
- Must be able to peice together to completely cover bodice and sleeves
Narrow Piping cord for Roleux loop (Purchased, Fabricland)
Cover buttons (Purchased, Fabricland)
Zip (Purchased, Fabricland)
Inner structure
Cut out coutil DONE
Cut out Power Net DONE
Cut out lining DONE
Assemble Mostly done - bottom edge left unfinished in case adjustments are required.
Add Boning DONE
Add Hooks and Eyes DONE
Petticoat
Draft Pattern DONE
Cot out and assemble
Add net
Add detachable train support
Lining
Cut out lining DONE
Assemble lining
Attach Lining
Attach zip
Attach inner structure to lining at side seams
Dress
Cut out Fabric DONE
Cut out interlining DONE
Cut out Net DONE
Hand tack interlining to fabric
Hand tack lace to fabric to Godet level, front and back seams
Stitch seams to Godet level, front and back seams
Apply Godet to net
Apply godet to fabric
Stitch and Trim side seams in net
Stitch side seams in fabric
Make and apply rolleaux button loops
Cover Buttons DONE
Stitch on buttons
Make sleeves
Attach sleeves
Cut skirt facing strips
Apply facing and horsehair to hem of skirt
Trimming
Cut out lace
Pin on lace
Allow to stretch and reposition
Attach lace
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